It is hot in Myanmar. Due to some rather unfortunate planning, I find myself here at the peak of the dry season, when the entire country has been blanketed by an oppressive heat that beats down in relentless waves. Wandering down the street near Shwedagon Paya, it feels as though I’m breathing in the moist, stale air that someone else recently exhaled. Average highs are around 40 degrees Celsius and naturally there’s precious little reprieve to be found as the incredibly rare air conditioner and ubiquitous but weak fans are both subject to regular power outages. No wonder Lonely Planet deems April in Myanmar hell month.

In these stifling conditions, I’ve gained a new appreciation for that glorious natural resource that most Westerners take for granted: water. I’m constantly bathed in sweat and must consume 2-3 liters of water each day to remain hydrated. I take multiple showers throughout the day to cool off. Yet the Burmese have a much deeper appreciation that brings their relationship with water to an almost spiritual level. As one monk told me, the rivers and streams are the life blood of Myanmar. And they joyously welcome the coming of the new year with Thingyan, the Water Festival.

A Buddhist holiday, Thingyan was traditionally a time when scented water would be sprinkled over the head of a worshiper to wash away their sins. These days, its morphed into a no-holds-barred splash fest, with throngs of children, armed with buckets and water guns, waiting next to the side of the road to douse drunken revelers as they pass by on foot, bicycle, motorbike or open-air jeeps.

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In downtown areas, the Burmese stand on massive wooden stages and wield hoses which project water with stunning, riot-control force. Everyone is dancing with reckless abandon to bone-shaking Burmese rock emanating from every car and stage. Regardless of where you go in whatever city, over the course of these 5 days you will be absolutely sopping wet within 5 minutes of stepping outside. As you might imagine, its a welcome change give the current weather conditions.

Whether its due to the cool water, the fact that its a holiday or the free flowing beer and whiskey, the Burmese manage to reach new heights of warm friendliness during the festival. Everyone you pass has a genuine, warm smile and wave to offer and most of the time, a splash or three of water to accompany the greeting. I’ve been offered the opportunity to both give and take, hopping on the backs of random trucks and jeeps to party underneath stage-induced waterfalls and laughing along with an army of children as we create a torrential downpour on every vehicle that passes us on the road.

Sadly, Thingyan has come and gone. Once again, the country must cope with the blistering sun and its hot, humid breath. But at least for a little while, we had managed to find a piece of water-soaked heaven in the hell that is Myanmar in April.